Nonlinear dynamic pressure beneath waves in water of intermediate depth: Theory and experiment

Abstract

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different approximations for modulated potential gravity waves. Regular and irregular wave sequences in intermediate depths are considered. The efficiency of different models for reconstruction the pressure field from the known surface displacement time series (the direct problem) is investigated. A new two-component theory for weakly modulated weakly nonlinear waves is proposed showing the best performance among all applied models. Peculiarities of the vertical mode of the pressure second harmonic are discussed.